Baby Onesie / Players Sewing by Themselves - Free DIY Tutorial
- Material and cut
- Sewing baby bodysuits
- Quick guide
I love to sew for my baby. I find baby players particularly practical. This is basically a baby bodysuit, except that the latter is sewn with feet. The baby player closes at the ankles with cuffs. The advantage is that you can attract the little ones by non-slip socks or shoes, which make it easier for you to crawl. Of course you can even sew for the very small dwarfs players, if you are not crawling. Then it just looks cute!
In today's guide I want to show you how even as a beginner you can sew a player for your baby. Of course, in some places a lot of patience is required, but with my proven tips, almost nothing can go wrong. You will receive a free sewing pattern in size 62.
Difficulty level 2.5 / 5
(also suitable for beginners with this step-by-step guide)
Material costs 2/5
(up to a body height of about 74cm, you can also get half the width at 1m)
Time required 2.5 / 5
(including downloading and pasting the pattern 1-2, 5 h depending on the exercise)
Material and cut
The material selection
I designed this cut for stretchy fabrics. Basically, it is also feasible with non-stretchable fabrics, but then he should be sewn a size larger than the desired size. In this tutorial, you will receive a pattern for size 62. For this reason, you should sew it only for children with a height of approximately 56 cm. If you sew it from stretchy materials and extend the cuffs slightly so that you can fold them over, the baby player (or the baby romper variant - if you sew it with your feet) can also be worn up to size 68. I've used a thin, roughened and stretchy summer sweatshirt in dark gray mottled for my baby player. The roughened inside is light gray.
The amount of material
As already described in the overview can be made of 1m in half width of this baby suit (or Romper) in size 74 with long sleeves and long legs. If you use our pattern in size 62 and lay the cut parts cleverly, you can even use the remnants to conjure a baby bonnet.
In addition, I provide you with an application for which you are welcome to process your scraps. How to create and attach applications can be found in detail in my tutorial. The application consists of two motifs: a mushroom house and a sun with sunbeams. I used cotton weave for both, but I got along with pieces of fabric of a maximum of 10 x 10 cm per color / motif.
In the confection, the child sizes are specified in body size. Each size covers 6 cm. The normal sizes begin at about 50 or 56 cm, as most children are at birth between these dimensions or slightly lower. The height is always rounded up to the next size. If your baby is 59 cm tall, sew the clothes in size 62. In addition, you can remove the chest, waist and hip circumference with a measuring tape and adjust the width of the pattern accordingly, since not all children have the same stature. Add about 2cm of leeway to the perimeter so that the player (or rompers, if you sew the player with their feet) is not too tight and your child can still move well.
This time I will provide you with a finished sewing pattern in size 62 for printing. You can also use the attached applications. To learn how to make a romper out of this pattern for beginners, read the variations below in this tutorial.
Tip: If you need a larger clothing size, you can extend this pattern at waist height by the desired size, as babies initially grow in height rather than in width. Up to size 80, this should work fine.
Here you can print out the pattern for the size 62:
Download: Pattern for baby bodysuits size 62
Since the dimensions exceed the DIN A4 format, the pattern is divided into several pages. When cutting and pasting the pattern, you should put some paper on it, so you can stick together the individual elements, like here:
On average there are no seam allowances so be sure to add these when cutting the fabric! If you wrap the neckline with a strip wrap, as I explain in this guide, you will not need seam allowances along the neck arches.
Transfer all markings from the pattern to the fabric. Either draw these on the fabric or make snap-ons (small triangular cuts within the seam allowance). As another example, I have sewn the marks on the fabric by stitching stitches on the photos for this guide.
Sewing baby bodysuits
Cut all required parts to:
- 1x front
- 1x back side
- 2x gusset
- 2x sleeves against the same
(2x button border rectangles, if you border the neck arch by Streifenversäuberung)
Attach all desired decorative elements. I opted for two applications on the front.
Now attach the gussets to the front and back. To do this, first put the centers together and carefully twist the ends while sewing so that the beginning and end are exactly on the markings. Do the same with the front and rear parts in this way.
Tip: Since I have decided on a slightly thicker fabric, my cut parts are all lined with the overlock in advance, so that the seams are not too thick and apply.
Lay the front and back sides of the baby player right to right (ie with the "nice" sides facing each other) so that the shoulder edges are flush. Sew the shoulder seam on one side and iron the seam allowances apart.
Tip: For thin fabrics, the shoulder seams are particularly stressed. Here, it is advisable to attach ironing inserts to both cut pieces on the left side of the fabric to stabilize the fabric.
If you want to provide the neckline with a cuff, put it now folded in the middle of the center folded edge and sew it with a light draw. For strip cleaning, sew it in one layer right to right. Fold the sewed strip up and around the edge of the fabric. Step again in the seam shadow (exactly at the point where these two substances meet).
Tip: For stretchy fabrics, always use a light zig-zag stitch so that the seams do not tear under the stretch of the fabric but also have some leeway.
For the button placket on the other shoulder, measure the width of the shoulder part and cut the appropriate size of non-woven fabric twice. Iron both rectangles 2 cm apart on the left side of the fabric of a sufficiently large piece of fabric and cut them with around 1 cm of close-up access.
Iron the two rectangles vertically upwards. Open again and iron 1 cm upwards. Then fold the piece right to right and sew one of the rectangles on the right and the other on the left. Cut back the corners of the seam allowances and apply. Now put the closed edge on a level with the cuff and sew them tight. Repeat this step in the opposite direction on the other side of the neckline.
You can also find detailed instructions on how to create these strips in my tutorial. Sewing button strips - a guide to polo closure!
Flip the edge over and sew the strip through all layers of fabric.
To make sure this works and then look beautiful, pin the bar with needles and make the right place by hand. Although this is a little extra work, but you are guaranteed with the result guaranteed. With fabrics as thick as the one I use here, ironing does not help much with so many fabric layers and becomes difficult to sew and slip away. Here, a combination with a thin cotton fabric can pay off.
Now put the strip of the front over the bar of the back and stitch them together in the seam allowance. Now you can use the sleeves on both sides. The attached markings coincide with the marks on the front and the middle of the shoulder bow lies on the shoulder seam. Put several pins (or wonderclips) in these places and at the beginning and end. When sewing together, make sure that there is just enough tension on the fabrics to prevent wrinkles.
In the next step, sew a cuff for the button placket at the leg detail. This is like a normal cuff edge-stitched in the break under a light draw once sewn around the entire leg bow.
Tip: If you are using KamSnap plastic press studs, cut a 1-2 cm wide strip of cotton weave into the folded cuff. Although it requires a little more skill to sew the cuffs now with slight stretch, but later the fabric does not overstretch when opening the push buttons often and does not tear out. Overall, the buttons are then easier to open.
Now place the front and rear parts right to right on each other. Fix both fabric layers with pins or Wonderclips as desired and sew on both sides from the sleeve end to the foot end.
Put cuffs on sleeves and feet. I used short cuffs with a height of 9 cm including seam allowance. The circumference should be about 0.7 to 0.8 cm of the sleeve or leg neck circumference.
Measure 2 cm from the middle button at the bottom of the button placket and 2 cm from the foot end of the placket and mark these two points in the middle. Distribute more points evenly along the remaining length. For me this is 4 cm each. Transfer these points to the other side of the leg as well. These are the markings for the push buttons. How to attach KamSnaps, you can read in my tutorial in detail.
For the button placket on the neck, measure one centimeter in from each end and attach marks. Another mark is exactly in the middle. Now attach all pushbuttons.
And now your new baby suit (or romper, if you sew the player with your feet) is done!
As mentioned above, the player can be easily extended in the middle for more sizes. This I recommend but up to the size of 74/80. In addition, with many babies, the body shape changes as they begin to crawl and run. Other sizes would have to be graded.
You can sew the player with your feet to make a romper out of it. For a cut with feet, for example, you can sew the TippyToes from my tutorial of the same name instead of the cuffs. However, add 2-3 cm to the legs of the player's pattern so they are not too short. Ideally, measure your leg length and foot length directly against your baby and adjust the cut accordingly.
Also a version with short legs and short sleeves is interesting for the summer.
If you sew it without sleeves, you can attach the cuffs directly to the armholes.
The pattern can be divided as desired, and even when decorating you can be creative with piping, appliqués, plotter pictures, lettering, embroidery, lace, ribbons, borders and much more.
1. Print out the pattern, stick it together and cut it out
2. Maybe adapt SM to the size of your baby
3. Cut with seam allowances (for strip cleaning on the neck without NZ)
4. Apply decorations and sew on both gussets
5. Close one shoulder seam and hem or neckline
6. Prepare button tape (trim, iron, sew, sew on, fold over)
7. Pre-stitch strips by hand, then sew on
8. Lay the front bar flush over the rear bar and sew together in the NZ
9. Pin and sew the sleeves
10. Attach button placket (with "woven core") to the leg bows at the front and back
11. Close sides from wrist to ankle on both sides
12. Attach turns and cuffs to arm and leg openings
13. Measure the markings for the push buttons
14. Attach pushbuttons
The twisted pirate