Crochet baby socks yourself - instructions
- Material and preparation
- Size chart for crochet baby socks
- Crochet techniques for the baby sock
- Crochet pattern for baby socks
- Part 1: sock tip
- Part 2: Foot area, heel and instep
- Part 3: Cap
- Part 4: Shank
When babies have cold feet, they are not happy. But with warm wool socks you can change that very quickly. So, do not think twice and get to the needle. Crochet baby socks yourself - this works better and faster than you might think with the right guidance.
Material and preparation
You need this:
- 25 grams of baby wool, z. B. "Baby Merino" by SCHOELLER + STAHL (100% pure new wool superwash) with a running length of 95 m / 25 g (A ball is sufficient in quantity for a few small socks, only if you want to bring a little more color into the game, you need several balls or maybe some wool remains)
- 1 crochet hook No. 2, 5
- possibly as a decorative addition to the decoration: 2 buttons
Size chart for crochet baby socks
Crochet techniques for the baby sock
These crochet techniques you should know or get to know if you want to crochet baby socks. Here is an overview of the matching crochet patterns:
- half sticks //www.talu.de/halund-und-ganze-staebchen-haekeln
- fixed mesh //www.talu.de/feste-maschen-haekeln
- Thread ring //www.talu.de/fadenring-haekeln
- Kettmaschen //www.talu.de/kettmaschen-haekeln
Crochet pattern for baby socks
If more details are given in the manual, the following applies: 1. Number for size 20/21, (2. Number in brackets for size 22/23), 3. Number for size 24/25.
The baby socks are crocheted throughout, except for the heel area, with half sticks. The heel copings are best suited for fixed stitches. Crochet start is the toe. From there you work your way through the foot and instep over the heel to the shaft. Each of these areas is explained in detail in the manual.
At the beginning of the round, crochet 2 transitional meshes before the 1st half stick. The end of the round forms a chain stitch in the upper of these two transitional air meshes. In the mesh calculation, I do not consider these transition meshes.
ATTENTION While I was still working the toe in continuous laps, the socks are turned from the foot area before each round. So you have practically in one round the outside in front of him and in the next round the inside, then again the outside us on. It is best not to pull the needle out of the loop after the warp stitch, turn the sock clockwise (not even having to remove the thread from the finger), crochet the two transitional meshes and continue in the opposite direction for the next round before. This is done so that the lap transition on the sole of the foot does not shift, but always runs in the middle.
Part 1: sock tip
The sock tip starts with a thread ring, in which 8 half rods are worked. Finish this first round with a chain stitch in the mesh of the first half-stick.
In the second round, double the number of stitches to 16 by stabbing twice in each stitch of the preliminary round. Do not forget: At the beginning of the round, crochet two pieces of air as replacement stitches. From the 3rd round you take 4 stitches in each round, before and after the right and left middle stitch. I mark these two middle stitches with a different colored thread. As center stitch I mark the 5th stitch head and the 13th stitch head of the round.
The stitches before and after the colored thread are each doubled. Do not double the marked stitch itself, so crochet with half a stick. The top of the baby socks gets a total of 4 (5) 5 rounds, which ultimately results in a stitch count of 24 (28) 28. If necessary, the colorful stitch marker threads can be re-placed each row. I have pulled something out of the picture so that they are easily recognizable.
Part 2: Foot area, heel and instep
In the foot area is crocheted in straight rounds, so without increases or decreases. From now on turn the work after each round! The pictures show only the end of the round and then with turned work the new start of the round.
For the foot area, crochet so many rounds until a total length from the top of 7 (8) 9.5 cm is reached.
Now stitches need to be increased, again on both sides of the center stitches originally marked at the top. A total of 4 stitches are added per 4 rounds, according to the same principle as described in the next 3 (3). If you find it difficult to count the stitches, you can use a stitch marker or a different colored thread again. Lay the sock with the future sole under flat on the table and mark the two stitches left and right in the kink. Crochet the rounds with turning maneuvers "back" and "forth". At the end of these increases there are a series of 36 (40) 42 meshes.
Part 3: Cap
The coping is crocheted over 9 (9) 11 back and forth rows along the future sole of the foot. The respective initial mesh of these rows is 4 (4) 5 stitches to the right of the current end of the round. To get there, crochet stitches are crocheted along the upper edge of the round. Lay the sock down with the sole side facing up. Seen from there, the 4th stitch is marked on the right. Crochet back with flat warp-knit stitches (turn the sock over again, crochet along the inside, turn the sock over again and the coping can start).
Crochet the coping in tight stitches. In order for the cap to nestle nicely around the feet later, it needs a rounding. To do this, when crocheting back and forth, make 2 stitches together (always 1 stitch of the row of caps and one stitch of the side heel edge). In the very first row of caps, 2 stitches are already played off right and left (beginning and end). In the following rows, only two stitches are cut off together at the end. To do this, cut into the last cap loop, pick up the thread and pull it through, then pierce the next stitch (the next stitch on the side heel edge), once more pick up the working thread and pull it through all three loops on the needle. At the end of such a crocheted row, turn the sock, crochet a tight stitch directly into the last crochet stitch of the previous row, at the end - as usual - crochet the last dart stitch with the next stitch on the side heel, etc .. After 9 (9) 11 Rows is finished the coping.
Part 4: Shank
For the shaft is in the basic pattern, ie half rods, continued. Starting point for the sheep rounds is the rear heel center. To this point is crocheted in Kettmaschen. Now continue to crochet in rounds. In the following round, take 2 stitches to return to the original number of stitches in the foot area: 24 (28) 28. To do this, cut off 2 stitches at the transition from heel to toe. In the picture these are the following white (cap) and the next green stitch (instep).
Fetch the thread, pierce the (here: white) mesh head, pick up the thread again and leave it on the needle, get another thread, cut into the next (here: green) mesh head, pick up the thread again. Now there are 5 loops on the crochet hook. Get another thread and pull it through all 5 stitches. Crochet along the instep and on the other side also, as just described, cut off 2 stitches together.
If you want to work looser, you can simply drop this slimming line under the table and crochet with 26 (30) 30 stitches.
From now on work as many rounds, until the desired shaft height is reached.
If a higher shaft is crocheted, it can be folded over later and possibly a decorative button attached.
Nice looks also a final round with Mäusezähnchen.
Crochet mouse teeth: Crochet 1 crochet, crochet 3 loops, then 1 more sts in the same place as the crochet knit stitch. Skip 1 stitch, crochet 1 crochet stitch, crochet 3 stitches, then 1 more stitch in the same stitching area as the crochet knit stitch etc.
Now the first sock is ready. The second sock is worked the same way.
Short instructions crochet baby socks:
1. Tip: Work 8 half rods into a thread ring, close with a slit stitch. In the next round double the number of stitches and then work in each round increases according to table.
2. Heel, heel and instep: crochet half-length in rounds without increasing, but do not work all around, but crook after each round and crochet back and forth. In the last round stitches, as described, increase.
3. Cap: Crochet back and forth in rows of sturdy stitches, each stitching the last stitch of a row together with a knit stitch.
4. Shaft: Crochet half rods in round and rounds. In the first round, as described, remove stitches. Now crochet the shaft at the desired height.
Are you also interested in knitted baby socks "> // www.talu.de/babysocken-stricken/$config[ads_kvadrat] not found