Crochet instruction for beginners: Crochet socks
- Material and fundamentals
- Crochet socks - the instructions
- toe box
- Foot area, heel and instep
- Short instructions - Crochet socks
Wool socks are a really nice thing. Once you have got used to wearing homemade socks, you do not want to miss the warm, soft accessories anymore. Especially in autumn and winter thick socks are not missing. In this guide, we show you how to crochet socks with ease and lightning speed.
If you do not like to handle 5 knitting needles, you can of course also crochet woolen socks. How this works is described in detail in this manual.
Material and fundamentals
- 1 skein 4-fold sock yarn, length approx. 420 m / 100 g
- 1 crochet hook No. 2, 5
The techniques needed for the crocheted sock can be found here:
- Thread ring to crochet start: //www.talu.de/fadenring-haekeln
- crochet half rods: //www.talu.de/halund-und-ganze-staebchen-haekeln
- crochet crochet: //www.talu.de/feste-maschen-haekeln
- Crochet Knittmaschen: //www.talu.de/kettmaschen-haekeln
Instructions for instructions for different sizes:
If several details are given:
Size 38/39 = Specification 1 - (Size 40/41 = Specification 2 in parentheses) - Size 42/43 = Information 3
Crochet socks - the instructions
As a basic pattern, the crocheted socks are crocheted in half rounds. At the beginning of the round, crochet 2 transition-meshes before the 1st half-streaks and finish each round with a slit-stitch in the upper of the two initial-stitches. The transition meshes are not taken into account in the mesh calculation.
Tip: To prevent the start of the lap from shifting in a single direction, row by row, you should start working before the third round of the footer before each round. This works best if you leave the needle in the loop after the warp stitch and turn the sock clockwise (the work thread can even remain on the finger).
Socks are crocheted from the front tip over the foot area, the heel up to the shaft.
Round 1: It is best to use a thread ring for the beginning. Crochet 8 half sticks into the ring, pull the opening together and finish this first round with a slit stitch.
Round 2: The number of stitches is doubled (applies to all socks sizes), piercing twice in each stitch of the preliminary round. (= 16 half rods) Remember: lap start = 2 transition air meshes; End of the round = warp stitch
From now on, 4 stitches are continuously added each round (on the right and left edges of the circle). For this I mark the 4th stitch (first increase point) and the 12th stitch (third increase point) with a thread.
Crochet 3: 3 half rods, crochet 2 half rods in the 4th stitch (see marking), crochet 2 half rods in the 5th stitch, crochet 6 half rods, in the 12th stitch (see marking) 2 half Crochet chopsticks, crochet 2 half sticks in the 13th stitch, slit stitch. (20 half-sticks)
Round 4: The work is turned over, crocheting half the sticks and doubling the two left and right stitches at the marking thread. (= 24 half sticks)
Crochet according to this principle at the top of your sock until the following number of stitches and the desired size are reached:
- 38/39 = 44
- (40/41 = 44)
- 42/43 = 48
At the tip of the sock, I have always stung through the front visible mesh link of the preliminary round. This results in the crochet result a slight stripe pattern. In the foot area, I stand in the preliminary round in front and in the counter round at the back. The pattern is quieter. Just pick the technique that's the easiest for you.
Foot area, heel and instep
The foot area is crocheted without increments. Continue crocheting in straight rounds until the following length is reached from the end of the sock tip:
- 38/39 = 18 cm
- (40/41 = 19 cm)
- 42/43 = 20 cm
From now on, stitches need to be increased for the heel. This happens again right and left as before at the tip of the sock.
Round 1 of the heel increase: Crochet the first round quarter (10 (10) 11) in half chopsticks, double the 11th (11th) 12th stitch, double the 12th (12th) 13th stitch, continue with half Crochet chopsticks, double the 33rd (33rd) 35th st, double the 34th (34th) 36th st and crochet the rest of the round in half sticks. Crochet a total of 6 (6) 7 turns, each with 4 doubles, according to this principle.
If you lay the sock flat on the table, the sock runs through the doublings right and left apart.
The mesh size is now 68 (68) 67 stitches.
The coping is crocheted over 19 (19) 21 rows of 15 (15) 17 stitches (along the sole of the foot). The crochet hook is in the middle of the later sole of the foot. Crochet from the middle first 8 (8) 9 warp stitches in the left direction.
Do the work to crochet the coping, using the side edges of the heel:
Row 1: Do not crochet a transitional airlock, but crochet a first tight loop. I do not stab into the mesh of the warp stitch, but at the height of the last row. As a result, the small difference in height, which make up the warp stitches, disappears immediately. (Crochet a total of 14 (14) 16 sts and stitch the last (the 15th (15th) 17.) stitch of the heel along with a loop on the heel wall (pierce the needle, pick up the thread, but do not crochet, needle pierce through the next stitch, pick up a thread again and immediately pull it through both stitches)
Row 2 - Row 19 (19) 21: At the beginning of the row, turn the work so that the working thread is at the back. Skip the first loop and crochet 14 (14) 16 sts. At the end of the row, pick up the 15th (15th) 17th stitch diagonally and cut it off along with the next stitch on the heel wall.
This is followed by 2 rounds of half-length chopsticks. In these 2 rounds, evenly distributed, reduce the number of stitches to 45 (45) 48 as in the foot area.
The shaft can be used in rounds with half rods. Or crochet the following pattern in rounds:
Pattern round 1: 3 transitional mesh and 2 more sticks in a puncture site. * Crochet two stitches and crochet 3 sticks in the 3rd stitch. * Continue the pattern * * until the end of the round and finish the round with a slit stitch.
Short instructions - Crochet socks
- Sock tip: Crochet 8 half rods into a string and close the round with a slit stitch. In round 2, the number of stitches is doubled and then increased by 4 stitches in each round.
- Foot area: Crochet in rounds without increasing, work after every round: crochet one round to the left and one round to the right.
- Heel and instep: increase 4 stitches in each round as indicated
- Cap: Crochet the fixed stitches in rows and cut off the last stitch of a row together with a stitch of the side panel.
- Shank: Work in rounds either in half-sticks or in the desired pattern. Crochet shaft at desired height without increasing.