Cut cherry tree to trellis fruit - instructions
- Cut sweet cherry trellis
- plant section
- education section
- preservation section
- Cut sour cherry tripe
- plant section
- education section
- preservation section
- rejuvenation pruning
Sour cherries grow best as a trellis as a free fan shape without central drive. Since their fruit shoots tend to lose weight and regularly new, long fruit shoots must be formed, can hardly draw other forms of it. Previously, sweet cherries were due to their strong growth on the traditional Seedlingsunterlagen neither as a fan-palate nor as Formobstgehölz suitable. Meanwhile, there are weakly growing documents such as GiSelA and so are also sweet cherry trellis possible. Frequently, oblique palmetto trellises are used. Sweet cherries, however, are difficult to control. They grow very strong and have to be cut abundantly.
It is important that the young cherry tree has a short, strong trunk. Mostly there are special varieties on offer, which are particularly suitable for trellis. Often they are offered as a bush, not as a tree. Sour cherries are then often sold grafted. Who does not have so much space, only a small wall area available or the location is very barren and dry, can use rootless, uncultivated plants or those on a Weichsel underlay. For those who have enough space for large trellises or a heavy and moist soil is better suited on a bird cherries base refined cherry.
Fächererspaliere are the simplest form of trellis. They are not that strict in education. Cherry trellis need a scaffold with a height of at least 2.50 m, better 3 m. For sweet cherries, keep in mind that they need a fertilizer variety!
Cut sweet cherry trellis
Sweet cherries on the fan door need space, at least 4 to 5 m in width and about 3 m in height. An appropriate scaffold stops the trees. Best planted is a one-year refinement, unbranched or already with branching.
When planting cut the unbranched young tree to about 40 cm above the ground. It is cut over a wooden bud. The two uppermost buds provide the basic framework for the later subjects. All other shoots are removed. When the two buds expire, the shoots are attached to previously attached to the scaffold rods:
- Cut off the young tree at a height of 40 cm. Slightly slant over a bud.
- Remove all other side shoots.
At the beginning of the second year the education cut starts. The two side branches are shortened to 40 to cm length, that is 2 to 4 eyes. Bamboo sticks are attached to the scaffolding at the same time as the cut. The fan shape must be clearly visible. The sprouts are later tied to the sprouts. The shoots should be directed approximately radially in the same distance to the outside. The fan is being developed year by year.
In the third year of the year, all shoots that are kept in the lead are taken back to 40 to 60 cm of the previous year's growth. In summer fasten the new shoots to the fan again. Remove unnecessary shoots in the summer. Shorten side shoots to 10 cm.
In the fourth year the fan is usually finished. Alternatively, the main drives can be cut again accordingly. It is important for a wall trellis that growing shoots are removed in the direction of the scaffolding wall. Also out of the fan outgrowth shoots must be removed at the spring cut. Especially to steeply growing shoots always cut away as quickly as possible.
- In the second year, shorten the two side branches to 40 cm.
- Fix bamboo sticks star-shaped on the scaffolding. Important is the same distance and an angle of about 30 °
- Tie new shoots later
- In the third year, reduce all leading gears to 40 to 60 cm of the growth of last year. Attach new shoots to the fan again.
- Remove unnecessary shoots
- Shorten side shoots to 10 cm
- In the fourth year either finish education or cut again as in the 3rd year
Even if the fan is completely built, older fruit wood must be removed again and again. In summer, it is still necessary to cut down young side shoots to produce young Bouquettriebe. If the fan becomes too large and grows beyond the existing scaffolding wall, it makes sense to take back the long shoots on weaker side shoots branching down further. In addition, make sure that fastening material does not grow. It always has to be relaxed in time.
- Remove older fruit wood
- Shorten young side shoots in summer
- If the fan is too large, take the outer shoots back to branched down side shoots
- Fixing material must not wax
Cut sour cherry tripe
The sour cherry is easier to tame than the sweet church. It is growing much weaker. Especially white morels have a good branching and are well suited for trellises. However, you have to be careful that you do not lose weight too quickly. The subject education has to be started early. Shadow morels also have the advantage of being self-fertile. The space required for a cherry is about 3.5 to 4.5 m in width and 2 m in height, ideal in front of a house or wall surface.
The best way to use a one-year refinement with a few side shoots. Two of them should sit at a height between 30 and 40 cm. They form the framework branches. All other shoots are unwanted and will be removed. Shorten the two side shoots by one-third to one-half on an upward-pointing leaf bud. The two shoots are attached at an angle of about 45 ° to the frame. As a rule, a corresponding extension shoot forms in the first growing season, from which 3 to 4 extension shoots branch off.
- Remove center and all side shoots except for two
- Leave 2 shoots at a height of 30 to 40 cm
- Shorten them by one-third to one-half, with a leaf bud forming the top end
- Connect both shoots at an angle of 45 °
At the beginning of the second year, reduce the remaining shoots by about 1/3. Distribute the appropriate new drives evenly over the entire available area. If there are still gaps, you must cut back again to make sure there are enough holes for the fan. The young shoots are attached to bamboo sticks on the scaffold, as in the sweet cherry. The distances should be the same so that the trellis develops evenly. Steep upright shoots must always be removed as quickly as possible. Shorten the frame drive extension by one third each over the next three years
The young shoots are fan-shaped attached to the trellis. So the next years can be continued.
- Shorten left shoots by one third
- When there are gaps in the trellis, cut again to stimulate the shoot
- Attach young shoots to the trellis
- Remove steep upright shoots
- Remove competition drives
The conservation cut in the sour cherry is uncomplicated. All steep shoots are cut out. In addition, you remove all shoots that make the framework spikes competition. Two-year shoots are redirected to near-frame annuals.
- Cut out too steep shoots
- Remove competitive drives to scaffold drive tips
- Forward shoots to the trellis and fasten
Also, a sour cherry palate aged. Without cutting the shoots hang over. The lower shoots hardly form fruit wood anymore. It is cut in summer, after harvest. The old-growth shoots are put on a young runner. Often you have to cut far down the trellis. The young shoots must be close to the framework, they must take over its task. Alternatively, the bald shoots can be cut completely down to 5 cm long pins. Then again reconstruction work has to be done, but a lot of fruit wood is formed. At the interface, new impulses form. One takes each one as a scaffold and guides him back along the trellis.
- Redirect forgotten shoots to a young runner
- Alternatively, completely cut down and rebuild
General hints and tips for cutting sour and sweet cherry trees can be found here:
- Cut sour cherry
Cut sweet cherry