Home generalDrill holes clean in tiles - how it works!

Drill holes clean in tiles - how it works!

  • Preparatory: Use the line locator!
  • Clean drilling holes
    • Council 1: Crack hole in the tile!
    • Council 2: Use a painter's crepe!
    • Council 3: The right drill!
    • Advice 4: Drill without impact!
    • Council 5: Correct use of the drill!
    • Advice 6: Drill hole in joints!
    • Advice 7: Use correct dowels!
    • Council 8: Aerated concrete anchor for heavy!
    • Council 9: Sometimes sticking is enough!
  • Further information worth knowing

It's not that easy to pierce tiles as they jump easily. However, with the right approach, the work becomes feasible for any home improvement. Based on some practical tips, we will show you how to pierce your bathroom and stone tiles as well as natural stones in such a way that the result can be seen both functionally and visually!

Whether towel rail, soap dispenser or toilet paper device: All these things are usually mounted on the bathroom wall. There is only one tiny problem: The beautiful tiles that adorn this wall make the drilling of holes that are necessary for the attachment of the aforementioned utensils, a Herculean task. If one has to be careful with normal concrete walls in order to achieve clean results, then this applies all the more to tiles, because: One mistake and already they shatter. Our guide will help you to avoid any difficulties that may arise. This creates clean holes without damaging the tiles and the attachment of the bathroom accessories succeed wonderfully!

In the following we give you a number of tips that you should follow or follow if you dare to drill holes in tiled walls and want to bring the act harmless over the stage. Due to the clear checklist form, it is also easy to read through one or the other point shortly before or during the action, in order not to make any mistakes, which may be fatal. So let's go!

Preparatory: Use the line locator!

Usually, bathroom accessories, which include, among others, the towel holders, soap dispensers, and toilet paper devices mentioned above, are mounted to the tile wall with a solid dowel joint on a retainer plate. The risk of hitting a water or power line in the process is high. For this reason, you should check the location (s) of the accessory with a line locator before taking any further action.

Tip: A simple line finder costs about 30 euros. However, you also have the option of borrowing the device temporarily. Offers of about five euros a week are abundant online and probably less expensive for people who are less likely to do so.

Look for electricity and water pipes

Clean drilling holes

Here are some concrete advice for clean drilling holes in tiles and the further procedure for attaching the items.

Council 1: Crack hole in the tile!

For smooth glazes that have numerous tiles, it is recommended to first mark the desired position of the hole with a water-soluble pen and then crack with a hammer and a thumbtack. By way of explanation, a thumbtack is nothing more than a short nail with a large arched head of sheet metal, commonly used for posting documents on a bulletin board . So you probably already own the item. And if not, he can buy extremely cheap. But back to the real thing: Hammer the tack very carefully against the tile until a small depression emerges. This ensures that the drill tip can not slip off. Incidentally, the effective reference comes from the renowned Stiftung Warentest.

Crack tile before drilling

Council 2: Use a painter's crepe!

Another clever trick that prevents the drill slipping on the glazed surface of the tile is the use of Malerkrepp. The rough tape simplifies the drilling of the hole, protects against the splintering of the hole edge and thus helps to ensure that the tile remains flawless.

Tip: It is best to use two four-centimeter-wide strips of the painter's crepes and stick them crosswise over the previously marked markings. Malerkrepp is already available for cheap one to two euros.

Drilling with painters crepe

Council 3: The right drill!

As far as the choice of the drill is concerned, the scratch hardness of the tile is decisive. It indicates how strong or weak the ceramic glaze of the respective tile withstands scratching and scratching stress. The values ​​range from 1 (very soft) to 10 (very hard). Tiles up to scratch hardness 3 can be worked with a tile and glass drill. For heavier items, especially porcelain stoneware and natural stone, you'll need a diamond drill that is cooled by a small water tank so it does not wear out. Since such a diamond drill requires a rather deep grip in the wallet, you should think about the lending at a rental service.

Tip: Use tile, glass and / or diamond drills only to pierce the tiles themselves and grab a normal stone drill for the wall behind. The special models would dull very quickly by drilling into the masonry.

Advice 4: Drill without impact!

Until you have pierced the tile and plaster, you should work without impact. Blow - like please ">

Switch off the impact drill

Council 5: Correct use of the drill!

Set the drill at a right angle. If the drill tilts, unwanted chipping may occur. Therefore, the use of a guide is recommended. Also, puncture the tile with low pressure and low speed. If you are not using a water-cooled diamond drill but are using a normal glass or tile drill, you should always observe its temperature and, if necessary, cool it in water.

Tip: As soon as the drill has reached the masonry, you can calmly drill again with normal pressure and higher speed. As indicated in Advice 4, you are now allowed to turn on the impact function if you have an urgent need. Urgent need in this case means that you do not thrive without a hit.

Set the drill at a right angle

Advice 6: Drill hole in joints!

Basically, if you can avoid drilling directly into the tiles, do it. Unfortunately, this option is rare. As an alternative, namely only the joints in question. And these joints are usually only two to three millimeters wide - too small for the dowels that are needed to install the bathroom utensils. Sometimes, however, it appears that the joints of the tiles exceed the dowel size. In these cases, you should drill between the plates. The enormous advantage of this variant: The resulting holes can be sealed with grout more easily and almost invisibly.

Tip: If this practical option is not open to you, you will inevitably have to drill a tile into its surface, so keep your distance from the edge area and instead choose a point in the middle of the tile.

Drill into the joints

Advice 7: Use correct dowels!

When installing you should use different dowels depending on the bathroom utensil. For the holder of the toilet paper device a universal dowel is sufficient. In contrast, so-called long-shaft dowels for towel rails and light wall cabinets are better suited. The long shaft of this special dowel (hence the name "long-shaft dowel") is expanded in the aerated concrete, which is beneficial to the stability.

Tip: A rather extensive package with universal bulbs usually costs about five euros. For long-shaft dowels you do not pay much more. There are already offers that are at about ten euros for 50 pieces. You may have to rummage around a bit until you find an appropriate offer, as the price differences are quite strong.

Council 8: Aerated concrete anchor for heavy!

If we have taken care of relatively light objects in Council 7, we are now opening the heavy guns. In plain language, we are now dedicated to things like the hand basin, a handle or weight-hung wall cabinet. All these utensils are attached with an aerated concrete anchor. This anchor has a thread that literally cuts into the concrete. If you want to install massive washbasins or even a toilet, you have to install an injection system due to the higher loads. In addition, add mortar into the drilled hole, which glues the anchor rod to the substrate.

Tip: Two aerated concrete anchors cost about three to five euros.

Different types of dowels

Council 9: Sometimes sticking is enough!

Our previous advice shows that a lot of know-how and tact are required when drilling through tiles. You may not need to go through this tricky step because: Some manufacturers have towel racks, toilet paper devices and similar items to stick in their assortment. In these things, therefore, the drilling is eliminated because they are attached to the wall sticking. Be sure to choose a reputed company. This ensures that it is a high-quality product and not only keeps the adhesive strip stable for many years, but can also be easily removed with a cutter or gently twisted the holder with a pair of pliers, if necessary, without leaving any residue,

Further information worth knowing

  1. Tenants are allowed to pierce tiles

You live in a rented apartment and doubt whether you are legally allowed to tile the tiles in your home ">


Tip: The duty of care means that you have to treat your rented apartment carefully and carefully and if possible to protect against damage, since you inhabit a foreign, not belonging to you thing. So do not experiment around, just drill holes in the tiles if you're sure you can handle the issue well. Otherwise, the assignment of a specialist is the lower-risk option.

  1. Correct drilling error

When drilling holes in tiles mistakes can happen. If a borehole is bad, fill it with a special trowel for tiles and only lightly remove excess material with a spatula. After curing, remove sandpaper and smooth the surface. Very large color differences between putty and tile simply hide with matching spray paint. If the tile has broken, you do not necessarily have to replace it. Cover the damaged area with a tile sticker. But beware: In damp rooms, such as the bathroom, of which we mainly speak in this guide, you can not avoid an exchange.


Drilling holes in tiles is a tricky business as the tiles can jump or splinter quickly. There are now good adhesive solutions, so that difficult drilling can often be avoided. We advise you to only trowel tiles if it is unavoidable. With tips ranging from using a line finder to using the right dowels and / or aerated concrete anchors, you'll surely be able to drill clean holes without damaging the tiles and stably attach your utensils!

Tips for quick readers:

  • Check the intended drill locations with the line locator
  • Knock hole position with thumbtack and hammer
  • Painter's crepe prevents the drill from slipping off
  • Glass or tile drills for soft tiles
  • Diamond drills for tending to very hard tiles
  • to work as hard as possible while drilling
  • Set the drill at a right angle and use the guide
  • Drill at low pressure and low speed
  • Hole in joints best drill (unfortunately only rarely feasible)
  • otherwise choose the tile center instead of the edges
  • Universal dowel for toilet paper holder, otherwise long-shaft dowel
  • for heavy objects aerated concrete anchor and possibly mortar
  • if in doubt, use adhesive solutions and avoid drilling
  • Tile drilling in moderation is also allowed in rental apartments
  • Hide drilling errors with a special spatula, spray paint or sticker
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