Sew maxi dress - instructions without pattern
- Material and preparation
- Sew on maxi dress with V-neck
- Quick guide
- Sew on maxi dress with drawstring
- Quick guide
I have long been the desire to finally sew my first maxi dress. As I still have some weight down after the last pregnancy, I wanted to make a cut that would suit me in the next few years. Unfortunately, I could not find a pattern, so I researched a bit and tinkered myself and there are two instructions for one-size maxi dresses created.
So today I'm going to show you how to easily put together two Maxi dress models with little effort and as a newbie in the sewing area. These clothes always fit, whether you are pregnant or not, and also if you increase or decrease for other reasons. There are also, as always, also here again suggestions for other variants!
Difficulty level 1-2 / 5
(this manual is also suitable for beginners)
Material costs 2-4 / 5
(Depending on the choice of fabric and variant, the price is of course higher due to the amount of material than for smaller projects)
Time expenditure 1.5-2 / 5
(depending on ability and material type about 1-1, 5 hours per dress)
Material and preparation
The material selection
These two maxi dress variants can basically be sewn from any fabric. Especially beautiful are fabrics with a high modal or viscose . You can also use cotton jersey. I chose both dresses for modal jerseys from Lillestoff. These and other great designs on super light modal can be found here for example: More motifs on super light modal
Slubjersey is also great for this type of dress. Beautiful motifs can be found here: Other motifs on Slubjersey
Tip: Since in both cases the full fabric width of about 140 to 150 cm is used, the instructions can be 1: 1 transferred to woven fabric. Weaving is often only offered with a width of 110 cm. In this case, you should better cut two pieces of fabric, each about 70-75 cm wide or use a correspondingly wide strip of fabric. Also make sure that the fabric is nice and light and airy.
Sew on maxi dress with V-neck
Variant 1: Sewing Bubbles Maxi dress - with V-neckline - The pattern
A proper pattern is, as I said, not for this dress. My modaljersey is about 145 cm wide and I use the full width for it. I measure only the length from the floor to the shoulder seam and add a total of about 6 cm for seam and hem additions. For me that is then 149 cm dress length + 6 cm additions = 155 cm.
I put the fabric right to the right (ie with the motif side to each other) together at the outer edges, attach at longer intervals and sew to a mark of 25 cm from the upper edge.
There I sew through repeated sewing back and forth. This should be my front neckline. The seam is a few inches away from the edges, as I do not want to see the edge print on the outside of my dress.
Tip: Especially with such light fabrics as modal and patterns with so much fabric, it always makes sense to iron on the shoulder seams and the neckline a seam tape for stabilization and sew along. So the seams do not run out. However, this is not absolutely necessary.
The seam allowances are ironed apart, right up to the top, ie where the neck opening is.
Tip: It is perfectly sufficient to cut off the neckline (approx. 0.7 cm) and cut back the protruding seam allowances. But I wanted to attach contrast seams, so I measured the width of the seam allowance and stitched from the outside with half an inch less in addition to the entire length.
The resulting tube is placed with the neck opening on the side to cut across the back cutout (here on the left side). My back opening is 12 cm long.
In the next step, place the front exactly on the back neckline and divide about 25 cm on both sides for the arm openings.
The sketch shows the previous steps and incisions for neckline, back neck and sleeves.
Now only the shoulder seams are closed and everything lined (hit once and stitch), then the first maxi dress is already finished!
Tip: Sew the hem to the end and try the dress again after sewing the shoulder seams so they can see how many inches they have to turn the bottom edge to the hem. And then iron everything well.
Only one thing is missing: the belt!
For this, the same technique can be used, which I have already written in the Talu manual for bias tape itself. Think about how wide the belt should be and cut it fourfold. The length is with me again the full fabric width of about 145 cm. No diagonal trimming is necessary here.
The fabric strip is folded once in the middle and ironed, then the outer edges are beaten to the middle. But here's another difference: First, fold in a few inches from the beginning and end (the outer edges of the fabric) to make sure the ends look nice.
Fold the ribbon once more in the middle and put the edges together. Now the entire length is pinned or clipped together and then quilted short edged. With the belt, the dress looks much more elegant.
- The dress can of course not only be sewn as a maxi dress, also a short version or a tunic are possible with this cut
- Of course you can also wear flounces of any kind - as well as ruffles can be processed here very decorative
- If you like contrasts or just do not like seaming, all necklines and the hem can also be edged or cuffed
- Of course, you can also attach deco here - how about one of the five fabric roses from my Talu tutorial of the same name "> Quick Guide
01. Measure length and add additions.
02. Sew side edges together (leave neckline open - at least 25cm)
03. Cut out seam allowances and stitch at least at the neckline.
04. Cut smaller neckline in the back center. (about 12 cm)
05. Lay the front and back center on each other and cut arm openings. (about 25 cm)
06. Close shoulder seams.
07. Try dress because of hemline. At the correct height, fold over the top edge and stitch.
08. Line or hem neck and armholes.
09. Sew belt using the bias tape technique.
10. And you're done with the maxi dress without pattern!
Sew on maxi dress with drawstring
Variant 2: Summer dream Sewing maxi dress - with drawstring - the pattern
Also for this maxi dress there is no pattern in the traditional sense. My modal jersey is again about 145 cm wide and I use the full width for it. The length is this time removed about five inches below the neck. Measured is the front to the bottom plus about 8 cm seam allowances. For me that is then 142 cm dress length + 8 cm additions = 150 cm.
I lay the fabric again right to right (ie with the "nice" sides to each other) on the outer edges together, stuck at greater intervals and sew close to the top. The seam will be better if you iron it over once. Following a spontaneous mood, I embellished the seam allowances with my zig-zag scissors. However, this is not absolutely necessary.
Tip: If you are using a fabric that is not wide enough, double the length and cut one rectangle each for the front and back. You will have either a seam at the front and back or at the sides as you like better.
Now you have to decide where the long seam should be. I would like to have them on my back, so I put the front center exactly on the seam, so that I can cut in each case laterally my approximately 25 cm arm openings.
Since this dress is strapless, there are of course no shoulder seams. That is why I immediately hem the armholes. The Spitz down is a bit fiddly, because the seam allowance can be a bit narrower. Then it is quilted from the right (ie with the motif page above) via a sewing machine. Please sew at the beginning and at the end.
Both upper edges are now folded inwards by 3 cm and quilted from the outside to 2.5 cm. This creates a tunnel for the cord.
TIP: Flip the corners inwards to get a nice edge trim!
Pull a cord (about 1.5 m in length) through both tunnels and then knot the ends together.
TIP: To pull in, you can use the coolie trick: simply slide one end of the cord into the side holder of a pen and slide it into the tunnel. Continue working until the drawstring is fully retracted.
Finally knot both cord ends together and tie a stitch on it. Ideally, if you are already wearing the dress, it will do the right amount for the hem.
Sew on the bottom edge of the dress and you're done with the second maxi dress!
Only one thing is missing: the belt!
Here you can either also sew the belt of variant 1 or you take a second piece of cord with about 1.5 m. Lock the end of the cord with a knot and tie the cord at the desired height as a belt around your body. You can now bring the cutouts and the folds on the belt in the desired position.
- Instead of the drawstring you can also take beautiful satin ribbons, even braided "friendship ribbons", bias ribbons and everything else that comes to your mind - just like the belt
- Even decorations can be applied without restriction
- You can also use a finished belt for both dresses! - I especially like here wide belts with beautiful buckles
Here I have decided to let the first long seam on the back run. Another option would be to put her on the side of the dress. This gives a completely different look again - and the print would be postponed, so the flowers on the front and back. That too is a matter of taste.
01. Measure length and add additions.
02. Sew side edges together.
Mark center and cut approx. 25 cm each for the armholes on the sides.
04. Armholes seam or border.
Turn top edge forward and back 3 cm, put corners inwards and stitch at 2.5 cm.
06. Draw string or ribbon and knot.
07. Determine the hem length and line the bottom edge.
08. Sew or measure the belt.
09. And you're done with the second maxi dress sewing without pattern!
The twisted pirate