Home generalApply rubbing compound - DIY instructions for inside and outside

Apply rubbing compound - DIY instructions for inside and outside

general : Apply rubbing compound - DIY instructions for inside and outside

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  • Rubbing plaster on the exterior facade
    • 1. Prepare the facade
    • 2. Select plaster
    • 3. Flush and surface plaster
    • 4. Material and tool
    • 5. Priming, attaching profiles
    • 6. Mix rubbing compound
    • 7. Apply rubbing compound on the outside
    • 8. "Rubbing" comes from rubbing
    • 9. Brush rubbing compound
    • 10. Repair the rubbing compound
  • Apply rubbing plaster to the inner wall

Rough plaster is not without reason one of our most popular traditional wall coatings. The outside is classically beautiful, inside with incredible possibilities, it is not easy to raise. But it can be done, and it's definitely worth it. In this guide, we reveal how to apply rubbing compound.

Rubbing plaster was developed on exterior facades, applying rubbing plaster is therefore first described on the exterior façade, where all the peculiarities of this multifaceted facade coating can be exploited and must be taken into account so that the result is convincing. However, the DIY instructions also apply if you want to use rubbing in the interior, but you have it a little easier and also quite different choices for the material. Here you will learn all about types of rubbing: Rubbing types

Rubbing plaster on the exterior facade

Rubbing plaster is a plaster of medium structure, which belongs to the classic plaster types on our facades. To get the rubbing plaster on the wall, the following work steps have to be carried out:

1. Prepare the facade

When the façade of a newly built house is to be covered with rubbing plaster for the first time, the preparation of the exterior wall usually does not require much work. The facade (the plaster base) must be dust-free, firm and even before the plaster application.

If construction has been completed some time ago, the wall may need to be cleaned again before applying a new coat of paint. This improves the adhesion and ensures that you do not use spores (mushrooms, algae, moss).

If a really clean and undamaged older facade should be recoated, often enough, the dry aspiration / sweeping.

If there are traces of algae, moss, mushrooms, it depends on the extent to which you must use fungicides or special algae and moss removers. With these harsh chemical bombs, you should thoroughly explore the ingredients before use and comply with the protection regulations that the manufacturer specifies when using them.

However, there is the possibility to clean even heavily soiled or mossy facades without chemicals with potentially dangerous ingredients, many homeowners have long had good experiences: mechanically remove loose dirt sitting, depending on the surface and degree of pollution with finer or stronger brushes, On a nice warm day with a simple vinegar cleaner, wash the facade in water or soda solution and then with water, close small cracks and holes with putty (at a certain depth with new plaster in the same structure as the existing one), allow to dry, finished.

The areas to be repaired should be neatly smoothed, the thinner the planned plaster layer and the finer the rubbing plaster, the greater the risk that edges and heels will shine through.

Especially cracks have to be closed, they tend to "propagate". What is not only a pity for the look of the new plaster surface, but rather quickly leads to insidious moisture creeping into the facade ...

If an old façade is damaged, moistened or even visibly moldy in many larger areas, this is the refurbishment case in which first of all the mold removal / drainage is in the foreground, about which you should inform yourself as quickly as possible. Until the outer skin of the house is mold-free, every thought of repainting has to take a back seat. Possibly the façade has to be cleared of plaster, dried and then plastered down to the wall; What is absolutely necessary in such a case should always be decided by a specialist.

2. Select plaster

When the façade is ready, the right plaster for the plaster surface to be worked on must be selected together with a specialist. For all builders who want to know about the background to the decision, here is a detailed overview of different types of plaster:

When you have found your plaster group, another decision is made: The composition of the plaster. For an exterior façade, you have to choose between synthetic resin plaster, pure mineral plaster or blends between the two systems.

A decision with far-reaching consequences, you determine here whether you live with dense or breathing walls and to what extent you need to inform yourself about toxins in a plaster mixture, more details on the plaster mixtures offered below.

3. Flush and surface plaster

The decision for the type and composition of the plaster to be used is accompanied by the decision for the order thickness and the plaster layers. New plaster is usually applied in two layers.

New plaster is applied directly to the tile

If old rubbing plaster is to be "made fresh", usually one layer is sufficient (of a plaster in the same composition as the existing one).

4. Material and tool

Depending on the previous decisions, you need:

  • Putzgrund
  • Ev. Protection profiles for corners and edges
  • flush
  • Reibeputz
  • Ev. Concealed Abtönfarbe
  • Masking foil and painter's crepe for windows and doors
  • Floats
  • trowel
  • stainless smoothness
  • drilling machine
  • mixing paddle
  • Mortar soup or big bucket
  • Ladder or scaffolding

5. Priming, attaching profiles

If necessary or recommended by the manufacturer for the plaster used on the given substrate, the substrate is first pretreated with primer.

The plaster base is usually liquid like water and therefore easy and quick to apply, you should only pay attention to the correct temperature / humidity, so that it dries quickly and well.

If you have decided to do so, then the protective profiles are attached to the corners and edges.

6. Mix rubbing compound

The exterior plaster is then mixed with the recommended amount of water, a stirrer and the drill in a mortar soup or a large bucket. If tinting color is provided, it is mixed in with.

How much you touch depends on how much power and experience you have in cleaning. You should mix about as much plaster as you can process and structure in half an hour to an hour. If you have never cleaned, it is worthwhile "sample cleaning" on a remote wall or on a plasterboard; not only to determine the working speed, but also to try out / practice
the desired friction structure (see 8.).

The plaster should have a mushy consistency, like quark (every bricklayer has his own comparison mass). Quark can have any consistency from almost liquid to the cuttable piece "> 7

If provided, the flush is first applied according to the manufacturer's instructions, whereby it depends mainly on uniform coating and good adhesion and not so much on beauty. If it has dried well, you should sand down noticeable edges, they could later be visible into the finishing coat.

Now the rubbing plaster comes as a finishing coat: The finished plaster mixture is roughly distributed with the trowel on the wall and then subtracted to grain size . The thickest grains in the classic Munich Rauputz are z. B. exactly 3 mm thick. If you hold the trowel at an angle and distribute the plaster under light pressure in such a way that the thickest grains lying directly on the plaster base give the measure for the layer thickness, you will receive a precisely 3 mm thick layer of plaster.

That does not sound very easy "> 8." Reibeputz "comes from rubbing

The top coat is not just protection, but also the decorative outer skin of the building. The term plaster refers to this ornamental function; "Putz" actually comes from "cleaning", in the sense of "cleaning out", making beautiful. There is a long tradition for this "makeover", with many traditional plastering techniques, the application of which is being increasingly renewed. With the rubbing compound, you have decided on a plaster of medium structure, which can be more or less coarse or fine depending on the granulation of the aggregate and the treatment with the float.

There are regional traditional abrasives such as Munich Rauputz, grooved plaster, worm plaster, plaster, bark plaster, which is achieved with a certain grain size and certain rubbing movements a typical structure.

Each friction movement - circling, back and forth, horizontal, vertical, diagonal or crosswise - thus gives a different structure. You should take a look at many pictures of different abrasives in advance to find out which structure you want to see on your façade. And, as already suggested in 7., practice - especially if you want to apply a regionally popular rubbing brush for traditional care. Each traditional Reibeputz is carried out in a specific grain, the Munich Rauputz z. For example, the classic grain size is 3 mm, but it is also available in grain sizes 2 and 5 mm.

When the plaster is peeled off in the desired layer thickness, the float is used, with which you impart its structure to the plaster in the selected rubbing motion. It is rubbed when the plaster is tightened, but not yet solidified. You can start as soon as the surface no longer shines.

How to proceed Wall surface for wall surface, distribute plaster, remove to grain size, bring structure by rubbing. Do not overdo it with rubbing, depending on its composition, excessively rubbed plaster tends to accumulate binder on the surface and thus harden too quickly, which makes the plaster prone to cracking. When the facade is finished, the fresh plaster may harden for 3 to 4 days.

9. Brush rubbing compound

Rubbing can be painted after curing, but usually color is introduced by tinting the plaster. A painting may make sense if the desired shade with tinting color can not be achieved.

Then you need a long-pile, soft roller, which penetrates into the recesses of the Reibeputzes, and with coarse Reibeputz thoroughly strong pressure.

10. Repair the rubbing compound

As I said, here you are trying something that Putzer learns for three years, so it is not unlikely that there is any need for improvement. The freshly plastered wall can be sprayed with water, then you can edit the plaster still something.

After curing, finishing with rubbing plaster is only a matter of removing and repainting, which you can save yourself with smaller blemishes - repaired areas that are larger than a one-euro piece can be seen, always.

If need be, z. Because the graffity artist had no talent:

  • Mask the area all around
  • Remove plaster with dirt
  • Clean up
  • How to peel and structure the rest of the wall
  • Remove the adhesive tape
  • Dab transitions with firm, wet brushes of different diameters

Apply rubbing plaster to the inner wall

Rubbing plaster on the inner wall is applied in principle like rubbing plaster on the outer wall, with the following special features:

The preparation of the walls should be done very thoroughly because inside usually a finer rubbing plaster is used and you may have any inaccuracy possibly the whole day in front of your eyes. So clean walls thoroughly and eliminate as much bumps as possible. Cracks and holes should be filled with putty and smoothed after drying.

Important: You can apply plaster on wallpaper, but this should then be painted in advance with Tiefengrund.

You should be aware that the plaster itself does not compensate for any bumps - it can not simply be applied to dents thicker, you'll see later.

Again, you have various plaster mortars and especially different plaster mixtures to choose from, which are presented below in more detail. Again, the plaster base is primed, especially strong absorbent surfaces such as plasterboard absorb a lot of depth reason and would deprive the plaster without pretreatment water. If you want to apply thin rubbing compound, you can put white plaster primer under it - if something shines through, it is then a white background.

Door frames, windows and Co. are taped with foil / painter's crepe, the floor is covered with foil. If you place a wooden board on the floor under the wall to be plastered, you can easily pick up and use falling plaster with the trowel, which can save a lot of material for plaster beginners. Again, just mix quantities that can be processed immediately, and do not rub until the dry plaster crumbles from the wall ...

Reworking plaster is also not easy here: fresh plaster can be sprayed with water and processed a little further. Hardened rubbing compound can be removed a little better inside and re-plastered, if the pattern is rather tender. But also here is that you usually recognize larger patched areas. If need be, for spaghetti sauce or similar niceties on the wall:

  • Mask the area all around
  • Remove plaster with dirt
  • Clean up
  • How to peel and structure the rest of the wall
  • Remove the adhesive tape
  • Blur transitions with a damp brush

Can work with very delicate textured rubbing, otherwise there may be a pretty picture (poster) for the place.

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