Home generalCut roses - Instructions for the rose cut

Cut roses - Instructions for the rose cut

  • The right time for the rose cut
  • The rose cut in general
    • How to cut "> Cut for all roses
  • The special cut
    • Beet and Edelrosen
    • shrub roses
    • Zwergrosen and small shrub roses
    • climbing roses
    • Rambler roses
    • Tree roses
    • Wild Rose
  • cutting equipment

The rose cut depends on the type of rose, whether it is a rose, a climbing rose or a bed rose, and whether it flowers once or more often. The cut with roses is not difficult. Most hobby gardeners do not dare to cut well because they are afraid that the flowers will be cut away. The opposite is usually the case. It has to be cut abundantly on almost all roses. The stronger the cut, the healthier the plants and the more flowers develop.

Even if the roses have already expelled copiously before the cut in spring, cut vigorously. The plants thank you quickly. Roses can do without cut, but they are forgiving, lose their shape and develop fewer and fewer flowers.

The right time for the rose cut

The right time is important. It is often recommended to cut roses in the fall. I can not agree with that. From my own experience, I know that it is better to cut in the spring. The best time is when the forsythia flower. When cut in the fall, you remove the lignified shooters. Frost can penetrate the open areas and shoots can freeze. They then have to be cut far down in the spring.


  • Once blooming roses start to flower in the summer for the coming year. If you cut the roses in spring, they are cut away and there are no flowers. Once flowering roses will be right after flowering
  • An old rose, which should be cut back because of blooming laziness. If some old shoots should be taken out of the ground, then the date should be somewhat advanced, so at the end of February, beginning of March.
  • Wild shoots - appear quite often in refined roses. They are recognizable by the fact that they differ in shape, sheet size and color from the others. They drift out of the base and must be removed as soon as possible. Wild shoots are not cut off, but torn out as deep as possible, tear out at the point of attachment. If the game drive develops, it is possible that it will overgrow the noble variety, depending on how strong it is.

Tip: In any case, the scissors should be used on a rain-free but overcast day. Both strong sunlight and rainfall on the fresh interfaces should be avoided.

The rose cut in general

When cut is divided into types of roses, after

  • Beet and Edelrosen
  • Miniature roses
  • Once and more often flowering shrub roses
  • Once and more often blooming climbing roses
  • Rambler roses
  • Tree roses

How to cut ">
Easy cut

Blooming is always removed as quickly as possible over the first or second fully developed foliage, as this is how the rose puts its power into the re-education of flowers instead of into the fruit base.

Cut for all roses

No matter what type of rose or variety is concerned, these points apply to all roses.

  • First, cut out dead and visibly ill shoots, necessarily into healthy, light wood
  • Take back thin and weak shoots. If they have no eyes, then separate directly at the beginning. Do not leave any stumps!
  • Cut out intersecting and rubbing shoots

The special cut

The individual species differ on average, sometimes clearly, sometimes only slightly. Decisive are growth group and blinding rhythm.

Beet and Edelrosen

These include Polyantha Roses, Floribunda Roses, Rigo Roses®, Art Nouveau Roses, Color Festival® Roses and Showtime® Roses. These roses bloom more often and have to be cut vigorously. As a general rule may apply: a maximum of a quarter of the total shoots should be older than two years. Low growing varieties can be cut even more.

Hybrid Tea
  • Cut off one to three older shoots directly on the ground, at the base
  • Shorten the other older shoots to four or six eyes
  • Shorten weaker shoots to just three eyes
  • Cut away single flowers above the second eye below the flower

shrub roses

The shrub roses are distinguished after flowering once and more often flowering. Once flowering, their flowers develop on biennial wood. More flowering, on the other hand, develop their flowers on this year's new wood. Shrub roses generally are not cut as strong, because a strong cut leads to strong growth and little flowers. The goal is a dome-shaped shrub form. The central shoots should be highest and fall off to the sides.

One-time flowering shrub roses

These include many ancient roses and the species Rosa centifolia, Rosa rubiginosa, Rosa rugosa and Rosa spinosissima hybrids.

  • Cut in summer after flowering
  • Usually only overlong, disturbing shoots have to be shortened
  • Occasionally remove an old shoot directly from the neck to promote new shoots
  • In spring remove only sick and dead shoots, cut into healthy wood

Often flowering shrub roses

These include many English Roses and Historic Roses

  • Remove one to two old shoots at the base to rejuvenate the rose
  • Shorten strong shoots by about one-third, weak shoots by two-thirds
  • Shorten side shoots in the outer area to 5 buds, so many flower approaches form

Zwergrosen and small shrub roses

Cut at Zwergrosen

These roses are also called groundcover roses. They develop very well after a strong cut.

  • Shorten all shoots to 10 to 15 cm half round
  • Simply cut down small shrub roses by half

climbing roses

Climbing roses are allowed to grow uncut for three years, unless they get completely out of the desired growth direction, but this can be corrected with tying. In the first year only long unbranched shoots are formed, without blossom approaches. Branches do not form until the second year.

climbing rose

The climbing roses are also differentiated according to once and often flowering varieties. For both species, in later years scaffold shoots, which have already flowered strongly at the top, are taken back to a younger runner. Once-flowering plants are cut directly after flowering, more often in spring.

Climbing rose are prone to balding. By cutting the rose is stimulated to drive out in the lower area. For both types divide the shoots into sections of equal length. Depending on the number of shoots they count and divide. Eg 6 long shoots, shorten two by half, leave two by one third and two. So the rose starts to grow and bloom at different altitudes.

One-time flowering climbing roses

These include almost all Old Climbing Roses and most Ramblers.

  • In the spring, remove sick and dead shoots
  • In addition, cut out old-fashioned branches at the neck to encourage neutering
  • Shorten short side shoots to three to five eyes
  • Some of the longer side shoots can be lighted (does not have to)
  • The main section is in summer, after flowering
  • It four-year and older shoots, which no longer have the abundance of flowers, remove the ground
  • Main shoots that have already flowered, except for a strong runner shorten

More flowering climbing roses

  • Cut out an older shoot each year to boost the re-emergence and rejuvenate the rose
  • Whenever a young long-drive has formed, an old one can get out. Form several young shoots, only one old remove
  • Remove all shoots that are growing in the wrong direction or can not be guided
  • Shorten the side branches of the leader to 2 to 3 eyes

Rambler roses

Rambler roses hardly need a cut. Only single shoots are removed, otherwise you let the rose grow. Once-flowering ramblers form rose hips, then when cut after flowering, they are removed, which is really a pity.

Therefore, cut off only the remaining rosehip tufts, preferably in early spring.

  • Young shoots in the upper area that do not fit into the shape can be removed up to a few centimeters above the shoot.
  • Lateral shoots leave, unless there are too many
  • Strongly growing Ramblers, which grow up into trees, do not have to be cut at all.
  • Frequently flowering Ramblers are cut only slightly. It is enough after the first flowering to cut off the faded tufts of roses, so that the rose does not put its strength into the formation of the fruit, but forms a second blossom.

Tree roses

Stem roses are cut in spring. The crowns are cut round. Exception: the mourning tribes.

  • Shorten the round crowns by 20 to 30 cm. Quietly cut
  • Cut cascade or mourning trunks only at the beginning so that the shoots branch, then grow
  • Remove only old-fashioned shoots to encourage new shoots

Wild Rose

Wild roses generally only bloom once and then form rose hips. They bloom on the biennial wood and should not be further cut.

  • Only cut more every five to seven years
  • Every three years remove one of the older shoots (preferably the oldest) to make room for new shoots
  • Cut after flowering

cutting equipment

Important for the rose cut are clean and sufficiently sharp shears. One differentiates between bypass and anvil rose scissors. In the bypass scissors, the two cutting blades glide past each other like a normal household scissors. It is ideal for soft shoots and prevents bruising, which is important for all roses. In contrast, an anvil shears are hit by a sharp blade on a flat surface. This is ideal for thick shoots, but can lead to bruising.

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Scissor difference anvil and bypass scissors


Cutting roses is not a mystery. If you know what type of rose it is and if it blooms once or more a year, you can reach for it with confidence. Once flowering specimens are usually cut after flowering, more flowering in spring when the forsythia flower. Climbing roses should be cut with care and depending on whether they are rilled along somewhere, for example on a rose arch. Rambler roses need very little cut, as well as mourning trunks. For most roses can be cut vigorously. The more severely cut, the stronger the sprouting and abundance of flowers.

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