Sewing velvet and silk - instructions and tips
- Sew velvet and silk
- Sew velvet
- Iron velvet
- Maintain velvet
- Sew silk
- Iron silk
- To care for silk
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Sew velvet and silk
So today I'll show you what to look out for when sewing velvet and sewing silk, what tricks you can use, and how to maintain these two types of fabric.
But first some basic words on silk and velvet sew:
Always wash fabrics. On the one hand, production residues are removed from the fibers, on the other hand all substances enter into the washing process. With cotton jersey, this is often so minimal that it does not stand out why many people do without it. Alternatively, you can - for substances that do not enter - help with the steam iron to save the washing.
What is velvet anyway?
Velvet refers to fabrics with a pile height of up to 3mm. Flor describes the small, fine threads that make the fabric so interesting. If the pile pressed flat, it is called Pannesamt.
The most common basic materials for velvet were cotton, viscose and silk. Today, velvet is often produced synthetically. Velvet made of natural materials is very high quality and was previously only accessible to a select few. Velvet always has a so-called stroke direction.
The stroke direction
Already in the planning of the blank you should make sure that the line direction always coincides with all parts. Usually, the stroke is cut from top to bottom. Determine the line direction by stroking the fabric with the flat hand parallel to the selvedge.
The direction in which the pile lays most beautifully and smoothest is the line direction. Suppose you sew a velvet suit. When you stroke the front of the blazer, you do it from top to bottom in most cases, so the stroke direction should be the same. By the way, that was done the other way around.
TIP: To avoid damaging the pile when cutting, be sure to go against the line direction here.
When sewing velvet, you should be careful to always work in the direction of the stroke. Use a finer needle (this should be 70 to 80 in thickness). Through the pile, velvet tends to slip when sewing. Fix with special care here with needles, cut all cut parts only one layer and attach ideally all seams before!
TIP: Pin once on each side of the seam line and then sew in the middle to make the seam exact.
When sewing buttonholes, it is advisable to sew a small piece of organza in matching color on both sides of the fabric and then cut back to the seam. In this way, the buttonhole sits exactly, does not warp and does not freak out.
I recommend to iron while sewing rather too often than once too little. For velvet, you should exercise caution. However, with a bit of background knowledge and preparation, this is not a problem:
Exceptionally, iron sparingly, so only when you really feel it is necessary. In addition, you should only iron velvet from the left (ie from the side with the pile) and in the best case so that it is right to right (ie with the pile to each other) on another piece of velvet. Thus, the two Florseiten can connect and the fine threads do not buckle.
Instead of using your steam ironing function, it is better to work with a damp cotton cloth at low pressure. Depending on the base material, the temperature setting is variable. Velveteen, for example, can be ironed very hot without being damaged. Silk or pannier velvet, on the other hand, does not tolerate the heat and should only be treated with heat.
With high-quality velvet fabrics such as silk velvet you should handle very carefully. Always hang your favorite pieces on hangers. If velvet is folded, you will never get rid of the wrinkles in the worst case. That's because the little florhaars can bend irreparably. Should it be absolutely necessary to fold the garment, turn it over on the left and place tissue paper between the pile sides. Slight creases may be removed with warm steam. Hang the garment over in a shower or a bath filled with hot water.
The velvet should be so moistened, but not soaked! Never put it in the washing machine or in the tumble dryer! Wash it very carefully by hand or put the garment in the professional cleaning!
What is silk at all ">
Properties of silk
On the one hand, silk feels cool on the skin, but on the other hand it is warming - an exciting combination. Silk can absorb a lot of moisture in the form of steam, around 30%, but it does not feel damp. Silk is very elastic and wrinkle-free. Depending on the type of silk, the properties vary slightly.
Quite characteristic: the silk cry. This sound can be heard when you wrinkle the silk. It is reminiscent of footsteps in fresh snow.
When cutting, care should be taken to iron out the middle bow in advance. If it can not be removed, it will remain permanent, so it should not be cut with, but beside it. Silk should only be marked very light and very carefully. Self-resolving trick marker is a wonderful option here!
For silk sewing use also fine (70's to 80's) needles or very fine, even thinner (Microtex). For silk fabrics, use only flawless - preferably new - needles, as these fabrics are immediately visible in every minute pull. Also choose a small stitch of about two millimeters.
So fine fabrics should be punctured as little as possible, so you prefer to use Wonderclips instead of the usual pins.
TIP: The best choice: sew silk with the so-called "French seam". The individual parts are sewn together first left to left, then right to right.
The "French seam"
In detail, this can look like this: Measure the desired distance from the edge and add five millimeters. If you are not sure about the dimensions, be sure to stick with the first seam within the planned seam allowance. About the middle is a good guide.
Now stitch both fabric pieces together left to left five millimeters next to the seam line marking and cut back the seam allowance to a few millimeters evenly.
Iron the seam allowance on the desired side and put the two fabric pieces together at the seam right to right and iron the edge in shape. Now stitch both fabric pieces together along the seam marking. Iron the resulting seam allowance on the desired side.
If you want to iron silk, this should be done while still wet. The temperature should not be too high and it is always ironed from the left. Should you ever have to iron from the right, place a layer of fabric on the silk for protection. On steam you should avoid due to the problem of stains (see paragraph silk care) rather.
To care for silk
Basically, you should have high quality silk fabrics cleaned. With plain colored basics you can also try it yourself. Especially important: Never wash only a part of the garment! It forms a water edge that you never get rid of again. The entire garment is always washed, in lukewarm water by hand or in the special program for silk in your washing machine.
Dry silk fabrics slowly and gently, preferably lying or hanging.
TIP: If in doubt, try everything in advance on a small piece of cloth until you have found the right way to handle this wonderful fabric.
I hope this little digression has solved some question marks and encouraged you to dare to try new types of fabrics.
The twisted pirate