Sewing circle skirt - instructions and free sewing pattern
- material selection
- amount of material
- skirt length
- Lay the cut
- Sew plate skirt
- The cuff
- Further information
- The "Lazy Room"
- Quick guide
These instructions, including free sewing patterns, will tell you how to sew a circle skirt with light speed and with little effort - whether for young or slightly older ladies. Have fun sewing and wearing!
Quick and easy to homemade sewn skirt
For little (and big) girls there is nothing better than a rising skirt when you turn! That's why I'm particularly pleased that I'm allowed to sew a circle skirt after a long time! You do not need a pattern and even for the calculations you do not have to be a math genius. This time around are also my favorite hem, the "loafers hem" and a simple instruction to cuff sew on.
Difficulty level 2/5
(suitable for beginners)
Material costs 1/5
(depending on the choice of fabric between EUR 0, - from the remaining utilization and EUR 25, -)
Time expenditure 2/5
(including pattern about 2 hours)
With this pattern, the material selection is virtually unlimited. For beginners, however, it is advisable to start with jersey, as it forgives minor errors and bumps. Advanced users may also venture on non-stretchable fabrics, but then you should add a centimeter to the radius (see later calculation) for safety. A division of the pattern is also possible (sometimes necessary, if a pattern is chosen, on which all subjects clearly have a "top" and "bottom"). Again, beginners should then rather stick to one and the same type of fabric. For advanced users, a mix of materials is also possible.
To keep it simple, I have created the waistband without retracted rubber and describe once again how a simple cuff is sewn. For children, this is often more comfortable, as it is nice and high.
amount of material
Depending on the pattern (ie waist circumference, hip circumference and desired skirt length), the amount of material can vary. If you want to cut everything in one piece, as here in the tutorial, you definitely have to expect 1 x 1 meter for a children's skirt with a length of 28 cm.
Ideally, you will design your pattern on paper. On the one hand, you can then use the cut several times, on the other hand, you can thus share the cut and put the plate skirt of several individual parts.
First you need the hip circumference. Measure for yourself (or your "model" if the cut is for someone else) the widest point (at the buttocks). Then it is calculated, because we need the radius (in my case, it will be a children's skirt with a hip circumference of 76 cm):
So, my radius is 12.1 cm (for jersey - if you are not using stretchy fabrics, add 1 cm). I record this distance on my piece of paper from the upper left corner. Now you can use a compass to create a quarter arc with a radius of 12.1 cm from the corner.
Tip: If you do not have a compass at hand, you can either use the ruler from the corner to mark points at various distances, then hand-connect them by a curved line, or tie a piece of string to a ballpoint pen and attach it to your 12, 1 cm mark, stretch the cord to the exact corner and hold it there. Hold the pen as straight as possible to create a bow.
In the next step you need the skirt length. Measure from the waist (the narrowest point) as far down as long as the plate skirt should be. I am sewing a skirt for a girl, which should end a little way over her knees and measured a length of 28 cm. Now measure another 28 cm from the circumference arc and mark the spot. Draw a second arc from the top left corner. Cut along both bows and your pattern is done.
For the cuff you need the waist circumference. In my case, that's 68 cm. Now calculate x 0.7 and add 1 cm seam allowance, ie: 68 x 0.7 = 47.6 + 1 = 48.6
Thus my cuff width is 48.6 cm. In height, you are variable and you can assess them entirely according to your wishes. My cuff height should be about 5 cm. Since the cuff is laid double, I have to double and add seam allowances. Then I round up and have a cutting height of 12 cm. So I need 48.6 x 12 cm cuff fabric.
For the hem, I expect 4.5 cm at the bottom. He should by no means be narrower, otherwise he rolls in too easily.
Lay the cut
If you have a design that you do not mind, lying sideways or upside down, you can cut the whole circle skirt out of a single piece of fabric. To do this, fold the fabric once in length and then again in width. Place the resulting center (the corner where there is no open fabric edge, only the folds are visible) as in the photo below right. Now place your pattern so that the smaller arch lies in the lower right corner. On the sides of the pattern should lie directly on the fabric edges. Stick the pattern to the fabric. Cut out the little bow with a seam allowance of about 0.7 cm. For the big bow, add at least 4.5 cm for the hem.
Tip: If you are still a beginner, measure outward from the large circle in several places and mark the distances at which you then cut along. Trained seamstresses can work by eye.
If you unfold the fabric after cutting, it looks like a large plate with a hole in the middle.
Tip: This pattern corresponds to a quarter of the entire circle skirt. You can also lay it up four times and cut it individually (in this case, do not forget the seam allowances on the edges!), But you can also divide it even further and put together the circular skirt of many individual pieces. This cut is also a good example of meaningful remainder utilization.
Sew plate skirt
You can also find another guide to cuffing in the article on the baby bag: //www.talu.de/pucksack-naehen/
Halve the cuff fabric first in the width (the "stripes" in the fabric run from top to bottom, it is sewn laterally) and quilt this with a simple straight stitch. Mark opposite corners with front center pins. Fold the seam allowances apart and place the fabric so that the seam allowances are centered on the top and mark both sides.
Now fold the cuff fabric up so that the edges come together. Secure the two layers of the seam allowances with a pin. Now fold down the top layer and put it over all three other layers, so that it comes to the bottom. The "nice" side of your cuff fabric is now on the outside. Now lay the cuff so that the needles of the two opposite sides meet, remove a needle and put both layers together. Thus, the cuff is "quartered" by the pins.
Mark those quarters on the skirt as well - just like the cuffs. The cuff is now placed outside on the right (the "beautiful") fabric side and pinned at the quarter marks. You have to slightly stretch the cuff. That's not easy the first time, but you'll have it out quickly.
Now sew all three layers of fabric (once skirt fabric and twice cuff fabric) with the usual seam allowance all around and sew at the beginning and end.
If you are sewing a cuff for the first time, here are a few small additional information: Start just after the cuff seam and sew the beginning. Lower the needle into the fabric and lower the presser foot. Now take the place with the next pin in your left hand and pull on the fabrics carefully until the cuff is the same length as the skirt and no wrinkles are visible. Now align the edges flush with your right hand and continue sewing slowly while holding the tension with the same strength in your left hand.
Sew until the pin is on the presser foot and remove it. Now proceed with the other "quarters" as well, until you are back at the beginning. Finally, sew over the buttocks seam and sew. In the photos, this seam is sewn with an overlock stitch, this does not need to be sewn. When overlocking, make sure that you remove the pin prematurely. Should the knife hit it, it could break.
If you want, you can now attach a size label or similar in your plate skirt. Otherwise, simply fold the cuff upwards. I have attached a crescent-shaped decorative stitching from the outside. But with broad cuffs this is not absolutely necessary.
The "Lazy Room"
As promised, I also show my favorite hem with this plate skirt, the so-called loafers hem, which is currently being offered for sewing with jersey fabrics. For this you should start with a seam allowance of at least 4.5 cm.
Fold 4.5 cm of the fabric outwards (right to right - ie the "nice" sides on each other) and immediately afterwards the edge back to the material break. These three layers are stuck and sew with the usual seam allowance.
If you do not like to use a measuring tape, you can also use other tools. For example, my pins are exactly 4.5 cm long. When I put these on the edge of the fabric, I always reach a constant distance, without having to measure each time.
Then fold down the hem and put on another reinforcement seam (do not use a straight stitch in stretchy fabrics, but use a jersey or a narrow zig-zag stitch) so that the hem of the skirt does not rise later. To do this, sew on the seam allowance from the outside using a short edge.
Tip: If the hem of your circle skirt does not fall equally well, iron it all over.
And the plate skirt is done!
1. Measure hip, waist and skirt length
2. Create a circle skirt cut, cut cuff fabric
3. Cut the plate skirt
4. Sew on cuffs
5. If desired, attach size label
6. Sew the hem and topstitch again
7. Iron the hem
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