Home generalPour out tomatoes - instructions for all tomato varieties

Pour out tomatoes - instructions for all tomato varieties

  • Why go ahead "> pros and cons
  • time
  • Recognize fruit shoots and Geiztriebe
  • Instructions for casting
  • safety instructions
  • exceptions
    • Staff tomatoes
    • Bush and vine tomatoes
    • Wild tomato
  • cuttings
  • Have you ever stood in front of your tomato plants in August and wondered about the enormous wild growth? Shoots over shoots, everything thin and long, wildly confused and almost unbreakable? And the neighbor's bare plants, which bear hardly any shoots and leaves, have much more fruit than their own?

    Tapping tomatoes has several different reasons. If the young shoots of tomatoes are not regularly removed, the plant puts all its power into the growth of the shoots and not - as desired by the gardener - in the education of fruits. In order to prevent this natural behavior, the young side shoots are taken out - that is in the gardener jargon "ausizen". In addition, the lighted tomato plants are less susceptible to disease. But how do you cut out tomatoes correctly? Are there differences between the different tomato varieties? What is good for the pronunciation and when to leave it better, learn here.

    Why go for it?

    Tomato plants actually grow bushy by nature, which is why they always produce new side shoots, which in turn branch out. Because of their weight, the shoots then tend towards the ground from a certain size and length. Some types of tomatoes can reach shoots up to four meters in length. Tomato plants, however, are only able to grow in height when tied by the gardener. The so-called vomiting is a very simple horticultural measure: very specific shoots - so-called Geiztriebe - are removed by the gardener. This forces a slender, upright growth of the tomato plant. Anyone who refrains from giving away and leaves the tomato plant to itself - and thus to its natural growth - therefore receives a more or less bushy plant depending on the type of tomato.

    Advantages and disadvantages

    The sprouting of tomato plants causes disagreement among the gardeners. While some swear by it, the others even see the health of the tomato plant at risk. Both sides have their arguments, with which they are not entirely wrong. Whether or not tomatoes benefit from taking away depends on a few different factors.

    1. advantages

    • Geiztriebe cost the plant a lot of energy
    • few shoots mean more energy for the fruits
    • richer harvest possible in a smaller space
    • Prevents the spread of fungal diseases (shoots are more airy)

    2. Disadvantages

    • open wounds facilitate the entry of pathogens
    • Stability reduced by the height growth (must be connected)
    • Likelihood of confusion with fruit shoots


    It may be the question of how often actually needs to be made. That's simply explained: regularly.

    Young plants are not spiked in the first few weeks. First, the plant should be able to develop freely. As a rule, a main shoot with leaves is first formed in tomato plants, which branches off after a few weeks and a height of about 20 to 30 cm for the first time. In this phase, shortening the shoots would be very damaging to the plant.

    As soon as the young tomato plants are placed in the bed (or in a bucket on the balcony), vomiting begins. This measure is carried out until the fruits are ready for harvest. This is the case with free-range tomatoes usually between June and September. After that can be dispensed with a further Übizen. It makes sense to have a weekly check on the individual plants, because young shoots are not only easier to remove, they also do not extract large amounts of nutrients from the plant. In addition, the wounds that form when vomiting are still quite small in young shoots. The risk of invading germs is therefore minimized.

    • go out between June and September
    • only on dry, warm days ausizen
    • best in the morning
    • Well water the tomato plant the day before
    • do not pour directly before pouring out
    • Check plant at least once a week
    • during the main growing season about every three to four days
    • leave up to three strong shoots
    • remove all others
    • also remove already blooming Geiztriebe

    Tip: If the tomato plant has very little foliage, one or two additional shoots may stop.

    Recognize fruit shoots and Geiztriebe

    Inexperienced gardeners often have great misgivings that they accidentally take out the wrong impulses when picking out: Instead of the unwanted Geiztriebe namely those that would actually bear fruit. For many gardeners, this is the main reason for not eating tomato plants at all. It is really quite easy to distinguish the shoots.

    Identification features for Geiztriebe:

    • are not primary shoots from the main shoot
    • grow in the leaf axils
    • sprout in the middle between two stems (the main and side shoot or leaf)
    • Sometimes Geiztriebe also grow behind inflorescences

    Instructions for casting

    If the Geiztriebe start to sprout, they are still very soft in contrast to older (slightly woody) shoots. Therefore, they can easily be worked out by hand. The new shoot, which forms in the armpit already existing side shoots, so it can be simply clicked off with the fingernails. If the shoots are older and therefore harder, a sharp, clean cutting tool such as a pair of scissors or a knife is recommended. The sharper the tool, the less strain and damage the tomato plant when picking.

    Inexperienced gardeners like to confuse the young side shoots with the fruiting approaches. So that you do not accidentally take out the fruit stems, it is best to let them grow a little. If the shoots get bigger, the difference is clearly visible. While normal shoots start to grow with a pair of green leaves, fruiting tops usually produce yellow flowers without leaves.

    • Always remove beetles as early as possible
    • best at 5-10 cm in length
    • Check all shoots from bottom to top
    • Spending more often facilitates the work
    • then the Geiztriebe are still very soft
    • always go out below the first pair of leaves
    • do not cut too deeply into the armpit
    • leave one to a maximum of three strong shoots
    • all other impulses ausizen

    It can quietly stand about 1 cm long stump of the shoot. If the unwanted shoot is removed below the first pair of leaves, the remainder of the rest has no more vegetation point (eye) and therefore can not form new side shoots. It is important to ensure that the shoot is never taken too deep in the Blattachsel, because this causes the wound is too large. It is also possible that existing side shoots lose their stability and break off.

    safety instructions

    The sprouting of tomato plants is in principle quite simple. However, if important basic rules are ignored, the plant quickly takes damage.

    • always pay attention to cleanliness
    • Wash hands before pouring
    • Cutting tools must be sharp and clean
    • never tear at the Geiztrieben
    • Pick out well-bound tomato plants
    • only out in dry, warm weather
    • do not pour water over the leaves immediately after spraying


    Tomato plants, which have formed very little foliage, because they were possibly too dark or only sparsely leafy because of a disease get additional shoots by one or two Geiztriebe stop. If the main shoot should break off, an overrun or sting gear can be used as a replacement within the next two weeks. Tomatoes often form new side shoots at the roots, these can be used for this purpose. If these shoots are missing, the lowest, strongest shoot is selected.

    Staff tomatoes

    Not every type of tomato must and can be spiced up. Only tomato tomatoes gets this measure well. Tomato tomatoes are the most widely used tomato varieties, their share of the world tomato crop is about 70%. Tomato tomatoes are tomato varieties that produce long shoots throughout the growing season (1.5-2.5 m). To prevent these shoots from sinking or kinking, they must be supported and tied with rods or special climbing aids. Tomatoes are constantly forming new leaves and flowers until autumn. In order for the fruits to develop well, the plants should be constantly enriched. In addition, the shoot tip is capped in August, so that all the strength in the past weeks in the maturation of the tomato fruits is plugged.

    Some types of tomato such as 'Liguria', 'Striped Roman' and 'Black Pear' not only form Geiztriebe but also branch out like pepper plants. The same applies to these branches as to Geiztriebe. If lack of space, these shoots should be removed as soon as possible, so that the wound can heal quickly. However, the regular shoots are not easy to break out, so they are best removed with pruning shears or a sharp knife.

    Bush and vine tomatoes

    While many varieties of tomatoes form long shoots and need to be tethered, the bushy growth of bush and bush tomatoes is certainly desired and should not be suppressed. In bush tomatoes, the shoots stop growing by themselves when a few leaves and inflorescences have formed. For this reason, they are much smaller and more compact than cherry tomatoes.

    All tomato varieties, which only reach stature heights of up to 60 cm, may keep their shoots completely. The Ausizen omitted in these varieties. Because of the low stature heights, these tomato varieties need every single shoot to grow in width. Only then can the tomato plant produce a sufficient number of fruits. Densely leafed tomato plants dry badly in the rain, so they are often hit by pathogens. In order to prevent an infection, it makes sense to plant them at a distance of at least one meter and also to roof over. The popular vine tomatoes include the following varieties, which need no support and no Ausbizen:

    • Balcony star: red bush tomato with stature heights of around 40 cm
    • Primabell: red bush tomato, up to 25 cm height
    • Primagold: yellow pot tomato (25 cm height)

    Tip: Tomato tomatoes naturally produce only about 50% of the amount of fruit that tomato tomatoes supply. That does not change anything about it.

    Wild tomato

    Wild tomatoes are another exception when picking. With wild tomato varieties, it does not matter at all for fruiting, whether or not they are being piqued. The fruits remain the same size and the number does not change. Many manufacturers already write in the sowing instructions whether the variety needs to be tethered or spiked. For most varieties, it is not necessary to cast. However, if the tomato plant grows too wild, it helps to prudently pick it.

    Examples of wild tomatoes

    • Currant tomato : small, aromatic fruits, no tying or casting necessary
    • Red currant: 1, 5 cm large, aromatic fruit, without tying and Auswizen


    Geiztriebe are incidentally excellent for cuttings propagation. So if additional plants are needed, such a Geiztrieb can simply be plugged into the moist soil. The cuttings are usually already rooted after a week.

    Tips for quick readers

    • Ausizen refers to the removal of special shoots
    • More and bigger fruits are forming
    • the plant grows upwards
    • necessarily bind long shoots
    • leave only two to three main drives
    • remove all scrapers
    • Geiztriebe form in the Blattachsel
    • sometimes behind the flowers
    • Remove beet drives as early as possible
    • Young shoots with fingers break out
    • cut thicker drives with scissors / knife
    • cut close to the leaf axillum
    • cause the smallest possible wounds
    • only use tomato tomatoes
    • Do not prune vine tomatoes
    • always reach out in warm, dry weather
    • Geiztriebe can be used as fertilizer or cuttings
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