Sew underwear - instructions and patterns for women's underpants
- Material and preparation
- Amount of material and the pattern
- Adjust cutting pattern
- Boxer thong
- Instructions - Sew underwear
- Sewing hipsters
- Sew French
- Sew boxer thong
- Sew on boyfriend
- Quick guide
Well-fitting underwear is unfortunately not always easy to find. If you want to look nice, cute or stylish, it can take a long time to find the right model. So why not sew yourself ">
Four patterns with instructions for a nice "Untendrunter"
So that really the right pair of panties is for everyone, I show you today how to create the appropriate patterns for four underwear models themselves.
As always, you can still decorate here diligently. In the case of briefs, however, less is usually more. Especially now in the summer, when you might want to wear a thin dress, a striking decoration on the underpants could stand out unsightly through the fabric.
Do you want to sew underpants for men? Click here for instructions: sewing boxer shorts
Difficulty 1.5 / 5
(suitable for beginners with this guide)
Material costs 1/5
(depending on fabric selection from EUR 0, - from the remainder utilization)
Time expenditure 2/5
(for beginners including pattern creation per model about 1 h)
Material and preparation
Jersey is particularly easy and practical to use. In principle, webware is also possible, but since this should be a simple guide, I will limit myself to stretchy fabrics. I have collected a small selection of favorite substances and residues for my underwear, which I would now like to combine.
Amount of material and the pattern
For such a panty you do not need much stuff. The patterns can also be divided arbitrarily. If you want to sew everything from a fabric, this should be about 20 cm high depending on the model. You will need the front and once the back, as well as the gusset twice. This is the reinforced middle section.
To be able to create each pattern yourself, you first need a basic cut. You can either gauge it (but in that case it would be important to have the measurements taken by another person while standing upright), or - and that's a lot easier - you'll cut from one of your underpants, which will be fine sitting. Since I, like so many others, mostly alone closeness, I limit myself in this manual to the second variant.
Remove cut from a well-fitting panties
First put the side seams left to left (ie with the inside pages together) and put them firmly in place. Attach more pins along the top edge so everything is flush and can not slip. Now put the leg cut-outs on each other and put them all around. Make sure that the respective seams meet each other exactly.
Fold your cutting paper for the bow or use the ruler to draw a straight line for the break.
Tip: This straight line is both the material break (or bow) and the threadline in your pattern. If you use scraps that do not go out, cut only at 45 or 90 degrees. Otherwise, the seams may be ugly. If you still want to cut at a different angle, then reinforce the side seams with ironing insert without volume.
Place the middle edge of your panties exactly on this line. At the bottom, mark the places where the back and gusset meet (the seams). Draw along the side of the panty and mark the seam at the gusset again below.
For the top edge, complain the fabric and pull on the elastic to the outside until the bow is exactly on the line and draw a line there. Now draw in the top edge.
Tip: My panties are a bit loose at the top, so I want to sew them closer and draw the top line naughty. If your panties are snug, pull on the rubber while you take off so that there are no wrinkles at the bottom of the jersey fabric. The upper bar should then be straight.
Connect the two markings of the gusset seam with a ruler. This is how the finished back looks. The front is removed in the same way.
For the gusset, fold a piece of paper in the middle for the bow. Put your folded underpants with the gusset on the paper from front to back. Draw in the curve of the leg opening and mark the seams, which you then draw roughly at right angles to the bow with a ruler on the pattern. The pattern will be more consistent and less wrinkled if these two lines are rounded off a bit. Fold along the lines and cut out like this.
When you have cut out all the pieces, you can put them together to compare whether the seams on the gusset have been transferred correctly. In case of slight deviations, you can now repair with the scissors. Also, the sides should be exactly the same width and complete with a beautiful curve for the leg opening. Since the underpants are supposed to be straight at the front and at the back center, also check once again whether the upper edge is at a 90 degree angle to the bow. Small deviations can be trimmed again. Now the basic cut is ready.
Adjust cutting pattern
To adapt a pattern, I first transfer my basic cut to paper and write down all the important markings. This includes the marking of the break, for the side seams an "S", the centerline at the gusset and the inscription "V" for the front and "H" for the back.1 of 2
Tip: Make a note of your sewing pattern to see if the seam allowance is already included. I also take note of this when transferring purchase cuts to my cut paper.
The Hipster Panty sits a little lower at the hip and is cut close to the body. At the leg cut it is also cut lower.
My panties are about 4 inches wide. If I check in the mirror, my hipster panty on the sides should be about twice as wide. So I extend my side seam with the ruler and mark me a width of about 8 cm. The gusset width should be preserved. So I'm just drawing a new curve between Gusset and my new marker. You can either do this freehand or use a curve ruler to help. Likewise, the rear side is adjusted. My panties are already sitting quite low at the hips, so I do not have to take anything at the waistband. If you want, you can still remove 1-2 cm here. Since the gusset remains unchanged, the first cut adjustment is thus already closed again.1 of 4
These panties are a bit longer than the hipster panties. Whether you are sitting tight or far left to your desires. I prefer tighter underwear, so I broaden again here from the original pattern transferred only the width of the side seams, this time by 8 cm. The total height of the side seams is thus about 12 cm. I now mark each leg section at a right angle and draw an auxiliary line. From this starting I draw again a bow to my Zwickeleckpunkt.1 of 4
For the Boxer String I extend the side seams by 6 cm.
I draw again longer auxiliary lines in the 90 degree angle. The gusset seam I have to narrow down on the back. How thin the string should ultimately be, is a matter of taste. You can also reduce the gusset seam to within half a centimeter of the overall width (ie 0.25 cm in the break). Personally, I'm not such a big fan of too narrow strings, so I put my gusset seam on a generous 2 cm. Now I connect the new Zwickeleckpunkt in the curve with my 90 degree auxiliary line. At the front side, I also widen the side seam, draw an auxiliary line again and connect the two points with a bow.
Now the gusset has to be adjusted, and I reduce the back width to 2 cm each on the right and left and draw in the new bows. About the middle straight. Thus, this pattern is completely modified.1 of 4
The Boyfriend Panty is especially easy to change because no changes are needed. The intervention opening is only sewn up, since we do not need them with underwear for ladies. For this I draw the front part of the panty off completely and measure the width at the waistband. In my case, that's about 34 cm. I round off this value to a value of 30 cm, which is easily divisible by 3. Now I measure from each side 10 cm inwards (the middle part may like to be slightly wider than 10 cm), put on this mark the Geodreieck and make me each a line in the 80 degree angle to diagonally below. The engagement opening can be mounted freehand or with the curve ruler. Whether it is flatter or rounder is again a matter of taste.1 of 3
Instructions - Sew underwear
Depending on which hem and waistband version you choose, you also have to decide individually on the waistband and at the leg openings whether you want to consider a seam allowance when cutting. Today I show different possibilities for graduation, which are usual with underwear. On the undersides and on the gusset, you definitely need seam allowances. For me, each 0.7 cm.
Using the French Panty as an example, I show you how the gusset is sewn, which is why I also use fabrics with different designs. First place a gusset with the back side up and the right (ie "beautiful") fabric side also upwards in front of him. Then place the back of your panties with the right side up and then the second gusset, this time with the right side down but with the back side up. Sounds complicated, but the photo clearly shows what it means. Pin all three layers firmly and sew them together with an elastic stitch.
If you now fold both gussets down, there is already a nice picture. Now fold down the back gusset and place the front part right to the right on it. Put these two layers on top of each other so they do not slip.
Now grasp the lower gusset, turn it over once and put it with the right side down to it, then sewn. After turning there is already a nice picture.
The instructions for the hipster briefs begin to sew in the same way as the gusset, and immediately afterwards the side seams are brought together. Here I use for jersey bias binding. In this variant, I simply fold the ribbon around the edge of the fabric and attach the beginning of the ribbon exactly to the height of a side seam and start to sew a few cm later with slight stretch. When I come back to the beginning, I stop again a few inches in front of the side seam and cut the jersey strip flush with the side seam. Then I fold up both ends and sew them together right to right. I fold it back in and put the new seam right on the side seam. Sew over it and you're done!
Sewing another type of bias tape requires unfolding from the beginning and also requires two seams to be applied. I have already explained this method in detail in the instructions for bordering the blanket (the only difference: here the jersey band is slightly stretched when sewing). It requires a little more time, but it is also more accurate.
Thus, the hipster panty is done.
With the French briefs, I attach an elastic band for underwear to the leg openings. In my case, about 1 mm is glossy on the edge, with some decorative ribbons holes or tips are attached. At the waistband I use a rubber band with crochet lace. I put on each leg of the French underwear, the elastic band with the shiny side right to right and close it with a slight stretch. Then I fold the tape inwards and step again with an elastic stitch.
Likewise, I do it with the crochet lace on the waistband, where I stretch this a bit stronger, so that the pants then not too loose. Now I close the side seams and sew them.
Sew boxer thong
In the boxer string, I put cuffs on the legs. How this works in detail, you can already see my instructions "baby pants" and in my guide "sleeping bag". At the waistband I use a narrow rubber band with 2 cm width.
How to sew on this elastic is explained in my next underwear tutorial, where I show you how to make and sew cuts for men's underpants.
Sew on boyfriend
For the boyfriend underpants, I transfer my drawn additional lines for the gusset by means of trick markers (or chalk or stitching thread) on my cut piece for the front. I will enclose it with underwear rubber band and I take the same one halved for the applied markings. For the rounding, I iron a halved rubber band to the bow. The curved band is attached first, followed by the other two "subdivision bands".
Then I still grip the waistband and leg openings (as with the bias binding, except that it has only two layers instead of 4) and also the boyfriend panty is ready.
1. Remove cut and change as desired
2. Cut to size with or without NZ
3. Sew in the gusset and turn it over
4. Attach or trim the desired finish
6. And done!
The twisted pirate